In a Rhône-Alpes farmhouse, a table this long was the center of the whole household, the place where every meal was eaten and most of the day's work got done. It dates to the 19th century and runs long enough to seat eight, a thick plank top on square legs with a low bar joining them near the floor. That low bar was as much a footrest as a brace, a place to lift your feet off a cold stone floor through a long winter meal. Sylvie sets it in the middle of the kitchen with chairs pulled up all around, laid for a lunch no one is in a hurry to end.
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